Five villages, all the pasta
“Five villages, all the pasta, and trains instead of cars.”
Five cliff villages, no car, and a working plan to eat your way through all of them. You move by train and boat, walk the coast path when the legs allow, and treat every harbour as a lunch stop. This is where pesto was invented, so lean in.
Good to know
- Best season
- May, June or September
- Pace
- A village or two a day
- Where you sleep
- A room above one of the five
- Getting around
- Trains and boats, never a car
- Length
- 5 days
- Budget
- €2,200
Villages stacked on the cliffs
Five villages, strung along the cliffs and joined by tunnels of train track. Manarola is the postcard: painted houses piled above a tiny harbour, fishing boats parked in the square, the sea impossibly blue below. You base yourself in one and let the train make the other four feel like your own neighbourhood.
Pesto where it was invented
This is where pesto comes from, and you can taste it: basil, oil and pine nuts pounded that morning, tossed through trofie, eaten at a table barely off the harbour. Add a glass of cold local white and a paper cone of fried anchovies, and write off the rest of the afternoon.
The path between towns
When the coast path is open you walk it, at least one leg: a cliff trail hung above the sea, vineyard terraces to one side, the next pastel village appearing around every headland. It is not long, but it earns the lunch waiting at the end of it.
Swim, spritz, last train
Days end in the water: a swim off the rocks, then an aperitivo on the harbour wall while the light turns gold and the day-trippers thin out. You never touch a car, the trains run late, and the boat home along the coast is the best seat of the day.
Make this trip yours
Tweak anything, and Tomo replans around you. One message is all it takes.