Reykjavík's colourful rooftops seen from Hallgrímskirkja
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Reykjavík · Iceland

Hot springs and harbour food

The brief someone sent Tomo

A long weekend of hot springs, harbour food and city walks.

4 days€1,700Culture
Why this trip

A long weekend built around water and weather. You keep a base in the little coloured old town and make short strikes out of it: a soak, a harbour dinner, one big loop of waterfalls and black sand. Iceland supplies the drama; you just have to show up and stay warm.

Good to know

Best season
June for light, winter for aurora
Pace
A soak, a walk, one big day out
Where you sleep
A design hotel in the old town
Getting around
On foot, plus one rental-car loop
Length
4 days
Budget
€1,700
The trip, chapter by chapter
Bathers in the milky-blue water of an Icelandic geothermal lagoon
At dusk

A soak while it snows

You start low and warm: a geothermal lagoon at dusk, shoulders under the water and steam lifting off the surface into the cold. The sky does whatever it wants overhead. You stay in until your fingertips wrinkle and any memory of the flight over has completely dissolved.

Dinner

Off the boats, then a cinnamon bun

Dinner is whatever came off the boats that day, eaten at the old harbour where the whale-watching boats tie up. Afterwards you follow your nose to a bakery for a warm cinnamon bun and a coffee, then walk the harbour with it while the light refuses to fully go.

Fishing and tour boats moored at Reykjavík's old harbour
The two-tiered Gullfoss waterfall thundering into its canyon, Iceland
The big day

Chasing the waterfalls

One day is the loop. You point the car east and the country turns theatrical: Gullfoss folding into its canyon, geysers going off on cue, a hundred smaller falls nobody bothered to name. You stand too close, get soaked in the spray, and grin about it the whole way home.

The coast

Black sand, big weather

The loop ends at the sea, on a beach of black volcanic sand with basalt columns stacked like organ pipes and the Atlantic throwing itself ashore. It is beautiful and a little menacing; you keep well back from the waves, take the photo, and turn back toward the warm coloured town.

The black volcanic sand and basalt stacks of Reynisfjara beach, Iceland

Make this trip yours

Tweak anything, and Tomo replans around you. One message is all it takes.